From its humble beginnings as a fur and leather goods shop in Rome in 1925 to its current position as a global fashion powerhouse, Fendi’s history is inextricably linked to fur. While the brand has expanded its offerings to encompass ready-to-wear, accessories, and fragrances, its foundation and a significant portion of its iconic status are built upon its mastery of fur and its innovative approach to this luxurious material. This article explores the rich history of Fendi fur, examining its evolution through the decades, highlighting key pieces and collections, addressing the challenges faced in the modern era, and exploring the complexities surrounding authenticity and counterfeit goods.
The Early Years: Establishing a Legacy in Fur and Leather
Adele and Edoardo Fendi, the founders, opened their first boutique in Rome's Via del Plebiscito. Initially, their focus was on high-quality leather goods and fur, catering to the discerning Roman clientele. Their meticulous craftsmanship and attention to detail quickly established a reputation for excellence. The early Fendi fur pieces were characterized by classic designs, employing traditional techniques passed down through generations of furriers. These early catalogues, now coveted collector's items, showcase the understated elegance and impeccable quality that would become synonymous with the brand. The early Fendi catalogue showcases a range of fur stoles, coats, and hats, primarily utilizing classic furs like mink, fox, and sable, reflecting the prevailing fashion trends of the era.
The sisters, Paola, Anna, Franca, Carla, Alda, and Graziella Fendi, joined the family business in the post-war years, bringing a youthful energy and a modern sensibility to the brand. Their collective vision propelled Fendi into a new era of innovation and design. This period saw a gradual shift towards bolder styles and more experimental designs, maintaining the high standards of quality but introducing a distinct Fendi aesthetic. The sisters’ collaborative approach allowed them to explore diverse creative avenues, ultimately contributing to the brand's diversification beyond its original fur and leather focus.
The 1960s and 70s: Innovation and the Rise of Ready-to-Wear
The 1960s marked a pivotal moment in Fendi's history. The collaboration with Karl Lagerfeld in 1965 infused the brand with a new level of creativity and international recognition. Lagerfeld’s avant-garde vision, combined with the sisters’ expertise in fur craftsmanship, resulted in groundbreaking designs that challenged conventional notions of fur fashion. This era saw the introduction of innovative techniques, such as the now-iconic "Baguette" bag, which showcased Fendi's ability to translate its fur expertise into other luxury accessories. The Fendi coat, women's styles in particular, became increasingly diverse, ranging from sleek, minimalist designs to more elaborate, richly textured pieces. The use of colour and pattern in fur became more prominent, moving beyond traditional monochromatic palettes.
The Fendi catalogue from this period showcases a dramatic expansion in both style and material. The use of shearling, alongside fur, became a recurring theme, adding a layer of texture and warmth to their designs. The introduction of lighter, more playful furs alongside the classic options created a broader appeal, attracting a younger clientele. The increasing popularity of Fendi's ready-to-wear collections further solidified its position as a major player in the global fashion industry, though fur remained a cornerstone of its identity.
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